Redhead Amok in Antarctica
There's been a bit of a delay this year in the onset of my excitement levels about returning to the Ice.
I'm not sure whence it originates, because, really, for me, the Ice is the Be All and End All of all things fabulous in my life. But there has been an element of dread in my return this year.
Yeah, I know, dread about the Ice? You wouldn't think it from all the gibberish blubbering In Lurve posts I've written about the place. Indeed, there is no other place on earth where I have experienced greater joy and awe. But the joy and awe is the PLACE, and the dread, when I explore it, is the people.
I'm simply not much of a people person. I'm very private inside, and people exhaust me. The intensity of contact with people in McMurdo, is such that there is no place one can retreat to for solo recharging of the batteries time. You eat with 3-400 people at every meal, you shit with someone in the stall next to you, you sleep with somebody one bed over, you cry behind sunglasses from both joy and sorrow and it is only private until the tears slip below the frames.
It has taken me these last four seasons to really understand that I am an introvert, and to what extent it has informed my life choices. I know I always skewed shy in the magazine surveys, but I'm pretty good with people and have significant social skills, so I assumed I had to be an extrovert, really. I get jobs where I deal with people, and I do it well. People often seem to like me. I'm not shy. I don't mind speaking in public, being on the radio, dealing with the unhappy customer.
Then one day, several years ago, I had the basic introvert/extrovert difference explained to me as such: An introvert needs to retreat from people to recharge her batteries. An extrovert needs to be with people to recharge. People contact drains the introvert and charges up the extrovert.
Which was a major "duh!" moment for me, in explaining why, in the days and hours leading up to any social event, major or minor, I get filled with anxiety and dread and fear. More often then not I'll cancel at the last moment and retreat into my own space, hiding from contact, and feeling somehow victorious in the escape.
I don't dislike people, not really. It's not like I can point to individuals who I wish to avoid because my emotional response is one of hatred and discomfort. It's not like that. I'll cancel on my best friend. She remains one of the only people who simply rolls with it, knowing that I do need her and love her, and it's not about her. It's never a judgment on the other person, it's about me.
I am even incapable of maintaining a relationship, moving in dual harness with anyone, for anything more than about 6 months. I lose oxygen, I starve for time, I become jealous of the time my partner "steals" from me, that I desperately need to recover my equilibrium so I can survive. So I leave, I quit. I end it. I burst out of the other end of that coupledom with my lungs screaming for air, determined never to do that again. I don't want to be in a serious relationship, knowing that about myself.
So, going back to the McMurdo is going back into the most intense social situation one can be in outside of a spaceship hurtling through space. On some level, that is going into hell for me. There is no privacy. It kills me every day in tiny ways. I can feel the sharp flames licking at me from here.
It tears me up inside to think yearningly of my return, looking forward to the bubbles of awe that float up inside me with every step outside, to have my mind shattered into tiny fragments of wonderment at the simplest things, and to have that lust laced with social dread. I do love so many people down there, I look forward to seeing them with an intensity bordering on illegal sometimes. My first weeks are spent in utter comfort in their company, because I know them and they know me and we share this special odd place with its special language and acronyms and habits. There is a comfort to be found in my friends, a home where so little has to be explained because in the rest of the world we are aliens with dichotomized brains, a large part of which we have to muffle whilst off-Ice. I do love these people, really. I am happy to see them. There are so many amazing people with big hearts and great lives to see again.
But the faceless crowds, the intense interactions, the inability to withdraw even while peeing in the dorm loo at 3am, the constantly peopled world down on the most isolated continent on the planet, stuns me into near panic. And I am tired of everyone, valued friends included, within a month.
So I dread my return.
I retreat to my hotel room after Fuels Training. I revel, I wallow, I luxuriate, I blog with a happiness that feels stolen, like I should be socializing with my fellow Fuelies or they won't like me. Like I'm doing something wrong, even if it feels so right, and completely necessary to my sanity. This private time is precious right now, and I will have every moment of it to myself, because I'm about to lose it for 5 months.
Yet, I am really going home, going back to the place where I am most content. I can taste it, it's that close. I am tilted southward, I have a permanent polar list. I need the Ice greater than I dread the people.
I must do, or I wouldn't go back again, would I?
"Traffic is slow today, but we're going to try and get you there in a fastidious fashion."
I almost barked in surprise.
Noticed a woman on the plane wearing such extremely high heels, that the shape of her feet looked like they were Chinese foot bound. I thought they were deformed.
Is that sexy? Who does that and why?
Give me serious boots any day, stick me outdoors at the South Pole at -40F/C in those boots, and I'll know what my feet are meant for. Not deformed for the sake of style.
On Friday night, as work grew later and later with a flight delayed by local fog, I was alone in the building without even the radios for Air Traffic Control chattering in the background.
I realized that this was the LAST time I HAD to wear a bra in 2007.
So I headed into the loo, unhooked the bra in back, slipped the straps out of my sleeves, and whipped it off. I folded it up small and stuck it my back pocket, free at last.
This is the first time in 4 years I've had any kind of a job that required me to wear clothes such that a bra was necessary. Sure, I wear a bra for fun sometimes. I have dresses where the bust darts on them indicate that they expect my boobs to be levitating up around my clavicles. Mine haven't been anywhere near my clavicles since I was a young teenager, unless I stand on my head. So I force them up there with architecture for special occasions.
I have always been uncomfortable in bras. I prefer undershirts. I even spent much of my senior year in high school and for a while after, wearing an undershirt, not a bra. I could get away with it, with the styles I wore. I wuzza punk, a goth punk, attired in black and layered like a mille feuille. But then, somehow, in a drought of self-esteem, I succumbed once again to the tyranny of the bra.
And a tyranny it is. Torture, every moment. Nearly every shirt I have has a divot or a wrinkle in the center of my boobs, between them, where I constantly reach for the bra and pull it down a bit. I've tried every kind of bra on under the sun, and all, even jog bras, irritate me tremendously. Underwires, cotton, stretch, soft cups, seamless, you name it and I've tried it. Ugh. I HATE bras. I don't want to wear one, ever.
So, for the most part, I don't. I mean, really, why should I? Who got to declare that women's bosoms need to be either one shape or the other, or higher, flatter, smaller, bigger, than others? Who got to decide that breasts should be pointy, rounded, look braless/seamless/natural, but really be restrained and controlled? Who got to decide how much movement was too much? Who gave the ultimatum about the rudeness of female nipples?
Unfortunately I am blessed in the front sufficiently that bralessness under summer fabrics is pretty obvious. I swing, I bobble, I bounce, I sway. Oh hell, I point. I garner stares, male ones of fascination, female ones of disapproval. Sometimes I can disregard all that and go about my way freely. But usually I simply don't want the attention, and would like to blend in a bit more. Fat chance as a redhead, but I do try.
So I batten them down. For years I wore super small men's wife beaters. I snugged my babies as flat against me as I could. I wore bras, depending on the top, in the summer time. I wore undershirts in the colder months. Or I wore nothing under my warm layers.
Then they invented new things: Stretchy materials that clung and controlled, and I bought my first new fangled "undershirt/camisole". I fell in love. Comfort and control both. I even wear the black one outside like a sleeveless shirt in the summer time. I was free of the bra tyranny, the dictatorship of the underwire, the oppression of the hook and eye right in the center of my back bone.
Except for when I play dress up, or as I like to think of it, get myself up in drag, for a party, I wear one of these things. And for the last three years, I did drag only a few times at a few parties on Ice. Sometimes to stunning effect. I didn't always wear a bra, preferring a corset or some such uplift, but I got the girls out there on parade. Some people haven't looked me in the eyes since.
Then I picked up this job at Port City Air. Many of my hours this summer were spent, quite formally, in a white shirt and black skirt at the Customer Service Desk. A bra was a must. When I was more casually dressed for other work, I reverted back to the undershirt/camisole again. But I spent way too much time this summer adjusting my bra after it rode up under my boobs, again and again and again. Thumb and forefinger-sized divots appeared between my boobs on all my shirts. I tried not to. I wiggled my shoulders, I stretched my back, I tried alternate methods of adjusting, when an obvious grab was out of the public question. But I never forgot I was wearing a hated bra.
So, late Friday night, on my last day of work before I head for the Ice, I removed it.
I could feel my entire body smile with relief.
Henceforth, I wear a bra only if I WANT to, not because I HAVE to. I'm going to be under multiple layers of long underwear, fleece, quilted-canvas Carhartt overalls, and a windbreaker. Who cares if I have boobs or not?
Reason number 3,792,411 why I LOVE the Ice.
I don't have to wear a bra.
I took a risk the other day, one of the last really warm summer days we had. I was running around outside barefoot and hopped in my car to head to the grocery store for the makings of a meal.
Got to the grocery store and realized my error.
I was barefoot.
On the door of the grocery store, as is the norm in the US, is a sign, indicating the following:
No Shirt, No Shoes, No Service.
It even had handy dandy little icons for the non-readers among us.
I went in shoeless anyway. I figured a quick run in to get bread, avocado & salmon, and I'd shoot out unnoticed via the express lane. Indeed, I didn't get caught by the grocery Powers That Be, but the looks on peoples' faces as they noticed. Talk about stiff with disapproval. Never a comment made to me, but they reacted as if I licked a muffin then put it back. As if I were somehow crazy, dangerous, unapproachable. Beyond their ken.
It felt glorious to barefoot it through the market, to tread through the paved parking lot, to wrap my toes over the top of my clutch pedal. For the next 5 months, I'll be shod in boots, heavy, thick, black boots. My feet will turn a pasty weak-skinned white, sensitive to the tiniest wrinkle in my sock. Even carpet will feel harsh against the soles of my feet. I had to do it.
Ain't it funny what people frown at in different countries? In NZ, I went barefoot constantly. You'da heard my toes screaming for mercy if I'd booted them except on the roughest terrain. I went barefoot into art galleries, bookstores, restaurants, grocery stores, etc. And y'know? I was often not the only one there wiggling her toes freely, and getting hardened calluses on the balls of her feet.
Not currently being on Ice, I found I had to pull in some resources from other friends who were already there, to perform certain actions for me.
Some people needed hugs. And I wasn't there to give them myself.
So I sent Matt (World's Best Hugger) to hug Rebecca, who's been having a rough Winfly with bad news. He literally swept her off her feet.
Then I had to cobble together the equivalent of my own hug from a Genevieve (The Other Genevieve: the dispatcher currently on Ice) and Rebecca (a redhead) to bestow on Ben Bonnet (of Phil Jacobsen's blog fame) a Winterover who was left solo in the Food Warehouse for Winfly. He needed a hug.
They stalked him and caught him this past weekend in the Coffeehouse.

His response:
Some of you who read me frequently , and have read me for ages, may note that I changed the tags I use on my posts to reflect my mindset.
I no longer refer to my home posts by the tag: Home 2007. I now refer to them as Between 2007.
As in Between Seasons.
The Ice is no longer the exception, Home is.
A common saying on Ice is:
"The first year is for the adventure, the second year is for the money, the third year is because you don't fit anywhere else."
I'm going into my fourth year.
I'm going home.
I've been reading the following ACTIVE Ice blogs:
McMurdo Station during Winfly
Andre
Rebecca
Tom
Amanda
Seth
Will
Marisa
Sandwich
There are dozens more. Witness Tom's post re: the current crop of McMurdo Winfly Bloggers.
Then there's the South Pole, still experiencing its Winter. Only 54 people overall, but quite the number of bloggers among 'em.
Laura
Neal
Brien
Heidi
The Stauchys
This is by no means an exhaustive list, but these are the ones I've been keeping up on.
This is my itinerary.
September 25th.
Boston to Dallas.
| Airline | AMERICAN AIRLINES | Est. Time |
4:05 |
| Flight | 1693 | Distance | 1562 Miles |
| Origin | Boston, MA | Meal Service | FOOD FOR PURCHASE |
| Destination | Dallas Ft Worth, TX | Plane | MD-80 |
| Departing | 11:50 AM | ||
| Arriving | 2:55 PM | ||
| Departure Terminal | TERMINAL B | ||
| Seat | 9D | ||
| Class | ECONOMY - Class | ||
| Airline | AMERICAN AIRLINES | Est. Time | 2:00 |
| Flight | 2281 | Distance | 644 Miles |
| Origin | Dallas Ft Worth, TX | Meal Service | No Meal Service |
| Destination | Denver, CO | Plane | MD-80 |
| Departing | 4:00 PM | ||
| Arriving | 5:00 PM | ||
| Seat | 10D | ||
| Class | ECONOMY - Class | ||
| Hotel | HYATT SUMMERFIELD SUITES | ||
| Hotel Address | 9280 EAST COSTILLA | ||
| ENGLEWOOD CO 80112 | |||
| Confirmation Number | FUELS- | ||
| Check in Date | 09/25/2007 | ||
| Check out Date | 10/01/2007 | ||
| Hotel Rate | 99.00 USD per night | ||
| Late Arrival Guarantee - Credit Card | |||
| FAX 1-303-706-1770 | |||
| Phone Number | 1-303-706-1945 | ||
| Airline | AMERICAN AIRLINES | Est. Time | 2:25 |
| Flight | 1519 | Distance | 845 Miles |
| Origin | Denver, CO | Meal Service | FOOD FOR PURCHASE |
| Destination | Los Angeles, CA | Plane | MD-80 |
| Departing | 5:20 PM | ||
| Arriving | 6:45 PM | ||
| Arrival Terminal | TERMINAL 4 | ||
| Seat | 9B | ||
| Class | ECONOMY - Class | ||
| Airline | AMERICAN AIRLINES | Est. Time | 12:40 |
| OPERATED BY QANTAS |
|||
| Flight | 7337 | Distance | 6502 Miles |
| Origin | Los Angeles, CA | Meal Service | REFRESHMENT/MEAL |
| Destination | Auckland, NEW ZEALAND | Plane | BOEING 747-400 |
| Departing | 9:05 PM | ||
| Arriving | 5:45 AM | ||
| Departure Terminal | TOM BRADLEY INTL TERM | ||
| Arriving on | 10/03/07 05:45 AM | ||
| Arrival Terminal | INTERNATIONAL TERMINAL | ||
| Seat | 28H | ||
| Class | ECONOMY - Class | ||
| Airline | AMERICAN AIRLINES | Est. Time | 1:20 |
| OPERATED BY JETCONNECT | |||
| Flight | 7397 | Distance | 463 Miles |
| Origin | Auckland, NEW ZEALAND | Meal Service | SNACK/BRUNCH |
| Destination | Christchurch, NEW ZEALAND | Plane | BOEING 737 |
| Departing | 9:00 AM | ||
| Arriving | 10:20 AM | ||
| Departure Terminal | DOMESTIC TERMINAL | ||
| Arrival Terminal | MAIN TERMINAL | ||
| Seat | Confirmed | ||
| Class | ECONOMY - Class | ||
Post contents coming once they are vetted by another reader.
Doesn't that just make you curious.
*********
You drink your vitamins straight from the bottle and shake out the water from the glass into your hand.
I need to be getting more sleep. Lotsa extra hours at work, and trying to fit a vacation of two days in between, requiring beaucoup driving hours and a ferry trip to an island.
I lost most of my first day there because I worked until 0100 (blame Mitt Romney or Rudy Giuliani for their late flights), then worked out until about 3am, got right on the road, dropped in on LLBean in the wee wee hours, and caught a ferry at 8:45am. I had about an hour's sleep in the car in the parking lot. I reached the island with no memory of the ferry ride, tossed a bunch of feather pillows on the front deck a few metres from the water, covered myself in a red wool blanket and slept hard until the sun went down. I watched it with one eye open, horizontal, cat curled up with me, satisfied with the world as it was,
But the aftermath is pills down my cleavage and water all over the kitchen counter.
Wanna search my blog?
Genevieve Ellison RPSC South Pole Station PSC 468 Box 400 APO AP 96598-1035
Everything has to go through NZ to get to me at Pole, and from the US it will take 4-6 weeks. My season ends in early/mid-Feb, so mail accordingly. Do not send packing peanuts, or things that can't freeze.
---on the road
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